LOUNGING ON CUSHIONS in the prow of a sturdy wooden dhow as it glides in total silence through the mangrove-edged creeks opposite the island of Lamu, the spoilt Western visitor, freed from two years ...

With every step, the sandy ground under my feet crunches with the sound of discarded plastic. Flimsy shopping bags hang from the branches of skinny trees like colorful bunting, and empty champagne ...

Not far from the coast of Kenya in the iridescent Indian Ocean lies an island called Lamu, very much the same as it was a thousand years ago. Since time out of mind, Lamu has been a bustling entrépot ...

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